Saturday, 9 June 2007

Tough week


Finally, we have arrived in Siberia (Russia), after what was one of the most challenging weeks that both Tim and I feel we have ever been through. In fact the rally organisers and some of the hardened rally participants feel it was one of the most gruelling that they had ever experienced. Not only for the individuals, but more importantly, for the cars. Tragedy struck in that numerous cars did not make the crossing into Russia. Only 87 cars (out of 130) made it under their own steam at the appointed time. Some others (? 10) have been trucked over to get to Russian workshops.
The roads in Mongola were appalling. No words can describe them. It is a very underdeveloped country. I understand now why they are a nomadic race. They pitch their gers (tents)wherever their animals need to graze. Very few villages. No need to travel to villages. No need for roads then! Our cars were just crucified by these conditions. How our own car survived, goodness knows. We got up at dawn from our tents, started doing repair work to just about every nut/bolt/screw that had been shaken loose, then drove all day, with aid of GPS to find our camp site, usually in the dark, buy our fuel, get some food down, and climb into sleeping bag, for a few hours kip, till next day. The scenery in Mongolia is incredible. Harsh, wild, almost lunar at times. The people in the towns were very curious but lacked the charm of the folk in the country. Always delighted to have their photo taken etc.

Abiding memories?
- The incredible reception we have had from locals all along the way. People waving, clapping, and we must have had camera phones clicking at us just everywhere. Policeman using their camera phones. Posing beside our car etc. Soldiers similarly. Hysterical.
- The dust which just got everywhere in the car, and meant everything just got filthy. The brave ones who drove in open cars were a sight to behold at the end of each day.
- Lastly, the contrast between Mongolia and Russia. The place where we crossed the border has only been open since 2004. It is in a remote mountain village where the locals are Khazakh (Khazakhstan is only 100 miles away). It is very primitive, and very dusty. No vegetation. After exiting Mongolia, you drive through ? 5 miles of no-man's-land to the Russian border. Then within 30 mins drive you see the other side of the Altai mountains, which are just idyllic. Picture-postcard, Switzerland-type beauty. TARMAC roads, which I just cannot tell you how much we appreciated.

The cameraderie of the participants is inspiring. Everyone is willing to help. Which makes the tragedy of losing those people who have had to fly home, all the more poignant. We miss them.

So, now back in mobile phone/email contact, we have Russia to cross over the next 10 days. Been working on the car all day today, as we have ? 600 kms to drive tomorrow. She is slow, and is only working on 7 of her 8 cylinders/ Clutch is going. Radiator had a hole. But she's going, so no complaints.

Tim will do a note before we leave. In short, an amazing experience. Loving it.

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